3 July 2017


Couture, of late, has become the time and place to show your collection – if you’re not a couture designer. Following in the footsteps of Vetements who did it previously, California sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy, like Proenza Schouler this morning, brought their Rodarte label to Paris. If there was any question over whether the city’s recent renegade shakeup was on the wane, let this be proof that actually it’s not – there are just more avenues to explore. The Americans in Paris chapter.

Each look – all frou and floss and flounce for flamenco ruffles and skirts and dresses and pearl-studded leather, along with flower-strewn bouquets – looked jolie enough as to show during couture week. In a pastel palette, it was a breath of spring fresh air with little blooms accessorised to match and polka dot patterns among rippling bodices and sparkling dresses that came with a sophisticated cowgirl boot around the foot.

The show was inspired in part by Robert Altman’s “3 Women,” Laura Mulleavy said backstage. But, she added, references to the trio — dreamer, artist and intellectual — were abstract and organic, and the overall mood, signature. “We were saying that this is really an evolution of us doing what we do.”

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