3 July 2017


Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have said au revoir to New York Fashion Week. The Proenza Schouler designers, together with fellow Americans Rodarte and Monique Lhuillier, have moved their show to the Paris haute couture calendar, and merged their pre-season collection with their runway collection, to enhance sales and to increase their international visibility.

This it’s-not-just-couture season indeed finds Americans in Paris, and not under the CFDA’s group umbrella. On Sunday, two Atlantic-crossing duos, former fashion wunderkinds all, made their Paris debuts: Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez and Rodarte’s Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy. Monique Lhuillier will show today.

Strapping details and flat midriffs exposed between halter tops and hip-slung skirts created a sexy sense of deshabille kept in check by almost flat patent slingbacks. This collection was definitely tilted toward cocktail hour and later, but one of their most compelling propositions was the way they paired strong-shouldered, nipped-waist, elongated jackets and a few floral jacquard coats with flaring lace trousers. Their girls will want that look.

Here, they worked with many of their signature themes, now rendered with a light touch — asymmetry, corsetry, artful exposure, the layering of seemingly unlike elements. This resulted in a dressed-up but relaxed attitude, whether in body-con ribbed knits that found a touch of edge in layered-on leather corset bras, or a white glamour jacket with black waist inset over a black front skirt.

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