FASHION WEEK DOCUMENTARY : NEITH NYER15 March 2019
At first glance, a collaboration between Neith Nyer and DDP seemed pretty odd, the aesthetic of the two brands being so far apart. But we have to say, after last seasons first collaborations and this Fall/Winter 2020 collection, the chemistry is clearly happening.
The collection tells the story of a party girl in a bad place in her life, who wants to draw her sorrows by obsessively and compulsively buy clothes and objects in a suburb flea market, early in the morning after a crazy night. “We thought of a digger,” explains Francisco Terra, Neith Nyer creative director and officially DDP’s since the end of february. “She’s a girl who obsessively bargains, she runs from the club early morning to get the best deals at the garage sales.”
As a result, the collection seize flawlessly Neith Nyer and DDP two universes : an new aesthetic that blurs the lines between the new and the old, luxury and streetwear. To do so, Francisco spent a whole week researching the archives of DDP in Bordeaux – excavated hundreds of pieces – with a particular consideration for the eighties and nineties era, which obsess the designer. Neith Nyer’s trademark flowers were all over the collection, while the iconic figure of the eggman – one of the most memorable visual element of DDP – had his face burned on jersey and hand-sewn hoodies.
The statement piece of this collection is the felted dress with embroidered flowers, which they worked on for five months straight and finished the night before the show. The piece looks like a flower that flowed as if they had broken an egg. A clin d’oeil from Francisco at the brands two symbols. This season’s fabrics are used in an unconventional, almost perverted way. Fleece is treated to look moth-eaten, then employed to craft byzantine corsets and bizarre flowers. Padded nylon is the base of mini skirts while knitted jackets are spray painted.
Some details that should be taken notice of : the cartoonesque and monumental shoes were done in collaboration with Naomi Hille, while Florence Tetier designed this seasons jewelry, a cosmic assembly of iridescent bubbles.
text : Maxime Leteneur @maxltnr