ARTICLE : PORTUGAL FASHION13 November 2019
WE WENT TO PORTO, FOR THE PORTUGUESE FASHION WEEK
This year Porto hosted the 45th, S/S 2020 edition of Portugal Fashion affirming once again that the Portuguese fashion has to be closely followed.
During 4 days at the end of October, more than 30 shows took place in the city, with the Alfândega do Porto Congress Centre as its hub. “We have more traditional shows and more performing exhibitions; designer but also ready-to- wear fashion, footwear and kidswear; national and international designers, established and emerging ones; fashion schools… All this without losing focus on the quality and uniqueness that set Portuguese fashion apart”, says Mónica Neto the spokesperson of Portugal Fashion.
A special guest joined the party: the freshly awarded french label Nicolas Lecourt Mansion, was specially invited aiming to cross international spheres and promotes Portuguese fashion industry abroad. Certificated by the well known Chardon-Savard Atelier Nicolas Lecourt Mansion created his eponymous brand in 2018 just before winning the French ANDAM Creative Label Prize. The collection showed an amazing plays of transparency in which nobody hides his sensitivity, or his body anymore. Sensitive but strong, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion brought French fashion daring to Porto.
Concerning the local Portuguese fashion, Luís Buchinho proposed practical and unpretentious garments that are easy to wear and carry. The “Accidental Tourist” collection alludes to tourist pressure in large cities, leading to the gentrification, environmental degradation and even identity crises. But Portuguese fashion can also be more sophisticated and we assisted to some fancy shows as Diogo Miranda’s one and his silk pale dresses full of lightness and poetry inspired by the grace and elegance of Tilda Swinton in movie « I AM LOVE ».
On the third day, the expected M’A show (Marques/Almeida) took place in an off location, in the beautiful and fancy gardens of Casa de Serralves. Propulsed by Portugal Fashion to the last London Fashion Week as special guest, Marta Marques and Paulo Alveida came back to their country for an amazing show about the marriage of ultra feminine tight clothes and tough biker boots and motorbike leather, clinical defined silhouettes or no-shape balloon dress, asking what means to be a woman in 2020.
The same problematics surround the international fashion sphere, and as the question of gender, the one of sustainability and ecology monopolise the catwalks too. Portugal showed its engagement through several shows. Susana Bettencourt even drew it on the clothes of her summer 2020 collection: it’s time to change.