MARGIELA – Fall/Winter 2017 PFW7 juillet 2017
What is glamour? Can it be created, bestowed, evolved? John Galliano has ruminated on those questions all of his working life. For the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection he showed on Wednesday morning, he was inspired, he said, “by the idea of proposing a new glamour. I’m not saying I found it, because it’s a working process.”
In the imaginative and tightly focused show itself, a trenchcoat’s gabardine was miraculously ribbed to suggest just that corrugated cardboard, another was carved out to created a boned corselet, while a man’s car coat appeared to have been customized with a Lauren Bacall neckline, and a Crombie to have been cinched to create the illusion of a 1950s peplum.
A stiff bra-molded leather bodice had been gouged with a pattern like a linocut, and shifts made of feathers clipped and embroidered into optical illusion geometrics.
The idea was to provide guests an inside look at what goes on at the Maison. The concept came together in four days after Galliano had to vacate his usual show space at Les Invalides because of the funeral of Simone Veil.