IRIS VAN HERPEN – FALL/WINTER 2018 PFW4 juillet 2017
Designer: Iris Van HerpenAtmosphere: At the Circus Bouglione, the Dutch designer celebrates 10 years of her brand with a collection entitled ‘Aeriform’ and an astonishing staging: the Danish group Between Music playing instruments in different pools. Iris takes inspiration from the relationship between air, water and nature, giving life to new silhouettes.Collection: The designer known for pushing limits, once more, surprises with her clothes which come to life thanks to worked materials creating the effect of pleats and cut-outs, waves like living sculptures, moving with the air and changing form in the light.Focus on: The last dresses, appearing like metallic lace flowers which hold their shape as if by magic, forming a structure which envelops the body.
Her Hollywood potential aside, the other 16 looks in this 10th anniversary collection shrunk the gap between science project and spectacular evening number, even when they required complicated laser cutting and heat bonding. Van Herpen’s preoccupations this season were water and air, and the fluidity of both. So organza was printed with straight lines, then pleated to create wave patterns on robe-like gowns almost magisterial in the affect, while narrow columns of silver stretch fabric were laser-cut in moiré patterns to achieve a similar undulating look. And, yes, a bold starlet should by all means take one of these dresses for a spin on the red carpet.