GIAMBATTISTA VALLI – SPRING 2018 PFW4 juillet 2017
They started in the idyllic catwalk setting of the courtyard gardens at the city’s Petit Palais but, as is to be expected from the Italian designer, the flamboyance continued into the gowns that were showcased last night.
Models picked their way across the mosaic floor on needle-thin black satin platform stilettos that accentuated the thinness of their legs, poking out of minidresses embellished with lace, sequins, embroideries and macramé in dense floral textures.
The show notes boasted whimsical names for these confections such as ‘blooming garden’ and ‘tulip’s warbling’, and the romantic theme carried through into the soundtrack from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons.
These alternated with draped chiffon dresses in pastel shades, including one that Valli described as “cuisse de nymphe émue” — an old variety of rose known in English as Great Maiden’s Blush. Valli’s sylphs may look inoffensive, but their blood-red lipstick and killer heels suggested otherwise.
He added structure with panels of jet bead embroidery and bold graphic accents — wide black-and-white bands on the waist of a floral-print dress with a lampshade petticoat skirt, or a thick black bow on a bouclé tweed skirt suit edged with crystals.