MILAN MOVES BIG TOPICS

26 février 2018
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Words and collages by Edward Kanarecki
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MONCLER AW18/19 BY PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI
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Unexpectedly, Milan fashion week started with a kick, which is quite rare for the sleepy Italian fashion capital. Thank Moncler, which smartly (and rather desperately) decided to revamp its creative strategy at the moment of, well, becoming one of those luxurious, yet no longer coveted brands. #MonclerGenius is a project that invites the most renowned industry insiders to interpret the world-known duvet jacket. There are eight collaborations this time around, and I found Pierpaolo Piccioli (creative director of Valentino), Simone Rocha and Craig Green’s works the most intriguing. The first went for minimal, even monastic silhouettes in white, black and pastels. The result: as if the Valentino couture client chose to wear her eveningwear to the Alps and be equally posh. Rocha, true to her feminine style that we all know so well from her London-based, namesake label, went for delightful pearl ornaments and fluffy details that preciously elevate the Moncler classics. Meanwhile Craig Green, London’s favorite menswear star, transformed his extreme signatures into slightly monstrous, inflated garments, reminiscent of a classic Moncler puffa. Honestly, seeing how heritage can be transformed into something so contemporary is the reason why fashion still can excite. Moncler well proves that.
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GUCCI AW18/19
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While Moncler looks to the future, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele grounds himself in the past of witch Sabbaths, myths and occultism. Still, the effect of his ground-breaking collection has its major importance in today’s world. Our identity, shaped by culture, Instagram, surroundings, interests, anything in fact, makes us. The same is with fashion, overflown with historical references and digital information. So, what has actually happened in that Gucci- fied operation room? Baby dragons, snakes and heads were carried by the models, while uni- brows and the third eye became the new make-up trends. It sounds unreal, but believe me, the Gucci ‘pluriverse’ becomes growingly the new reality. Whether you love dressing up in medieval, velvet gowns or feel like a 60s geek from New York at the very moment, Michele has one simple answer: be who you want to be. Franceso Risso as well embraces individuality at Marni, where he distorts volumes, combines the most unlikely materials and has… fun. I bet a word like ‘trend’ doesn’t exist for that immensely talented guy, who can do lady-like cat prints and equally chic plastic wind coats in one collection.
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PRADA AW18/19
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Milan seems to move big topics. For her autumn-winter 2018 collection, Miuccia Prada dreams that women can feel free and safe in the night-time. That’s why, even though the collection is filled with colorful embroideries and party-ready sequins, it’s mainly based on Pocono-nylon (the brand’s all-time signature) and rubber. Presence of so many man-made,
even synthetic materials suggests a kind of shelter; protection. Still, a feminine notion was well conveyed in the tulle shawls tied around the neck, that smoothly contrasted with the heavy, utilitarian pieces. But not only was protection on Prada’s mind this season. A certain self-reflection was distinct. Just look at all the references from the past collections – those flame shoes, fanny packs, blurred prints and sharp 90s minimalism ring a bell, right? It’s good to see classics revived – but not for the third, fourth season in a row.
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VERSACE AW18/19
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Even though Versace isn’t deep in meanings and concepts, I enjoyed it a lot. Donatella makes the VER-SA-CE word sound like a vision of delightful, hedonistic and extremely italian dolce vita. But at the same time, she smartly injects her style into the house codes of Gianni. I adore the contemporary sportiness to what she does lately – the eveningwear is glamorous, but comfortable; vintage-y animal spots and Clueless checks land on puffer jackets. Even though I can’t say I’m an ultimate fan of Versace aesthetics, I’m a fan of Donatella. She’s a woman to respect, and love. Similar thing can be said of Angela Missoni, who leads her family brand with grace.
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MISSONI AW18/19
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Missoni this season is all about signature knits kept in a psychedelic, slightly nomadic notion. It’s about softness and ‘laid-back’ mood – remedies the fashion industry needs right now.
Heritage, individuality, protection, female power, history, future – that’s quite a lot as for one fashion week (especially Milan!). But it’s more than satisfying to see that some designers push the envelope a little bit further and aren’t drowning us in another set of undemanding, unambitious clothes.
 
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